When typing these blog updates we have always been conscious of not making you all overly jealous, what with the great weather, delicious cheap food and amazing scenery. But as we have less than 3 weeks left, and because this blog entry ultimately will make you anything but jealous, I have to tell you that I am sat in a hammock in a leafy courtyard writing this. It is a warm evening and I can hear the waves crashing on the beach.
Huanchacho is on the coast north of Lima. It’s very popular with surfers due to the fantastic waves that constantly batter it’s coast. We arrived on the night bus from Chachapoyas with Claire and Linzy bleating on about writing their last will and testament during the journey or some such drama. Apparently the driver had a death wish. I paid no attention to them. I slept through the ordeal.
Linzy went off to her chosen bargain hostel but we wanted a pool so we went around the corner to the place with two great pig pools on its large sign. Foolishly we didn’t look at these pools when checking in. After 3 hours kip we arose to find that one pool was empty (and had gypsies camped next to it) and the other was tiny and had garbage floating it.
We decided to stay only one night and went looking for a better place. Mindful that it is currently the quiet season here I was in the mood for some negotiating.
We eventually found our way to an upmarket resort at the south end of the beach. Inspired by the fact that all of the room keys (aside from 3) were still hanging on their wall I played hardball. The price started at £35 per night. I forced them down to less than £20 per night. Admittedly they slung us in a room right up at the back of the complex, but it was near the lovely pool and had cable tv and a safe!
We strolled back to the pool-less hostal via a typically cheap Peruvian eatery which served excellent ceviche. That’s raw fish “cooked” in cold lime juice. It’s fantastic.
(Peru loves it’s cakes. This lemon meringue pie was almost as good as my Mum’s!)
The next day we dragged our bags down the coast to our new place. The weather was great but by the time we got to the pool the sun had gone down.
The next day Claire started to feel ill with a stomach bug. By the evening she was quite bad though the next day she felt a little better. Just in time for me to go down with an equally nasty bug. The upshot of which is that we paid to stay in a resort with a pool only to be stuck in the room for the best part of 48 hours.
We cut our losses and headed to Linzi’s hostel, with the hammocks and no pool. And tortoises bizarrely.
Huanchaco is famous for its boats made of reeds and used by the local fisherman. This is the only place in Peru that still uses these style of boats. They are quite impressive.
(reed boats drying in the sun)
Despite the stomach bugs Huanchaco has been ok. The beach is fairly pleasant and the weather has been mostly nice. And the ceviche here is fantastic, and I bluntly refuse to accept that it might have been responsible for me getting ill.
Tomorrow we catch the bus to Lima and then the day after we fly to Costa Rica, our second to last stop.